* WOODY’S PARIS
RESTAURANT GUIDE
Dining
reasonably in Paris (for under 35 Euros ) E mail any comments to
WoodyAAL@aol.com
Blog
address: woodysrestaurantlists@blogspot.com
LE COUPE CHOU
11, Rue de Lanneau (near the Pantheon)
Tel: 01 46 33 68 69/01 43 54 36 54
Metro: Mauberg Mutualitie
For prices and the menu be sure and
check out this adorable restaurant on the web. It is one of the prettiest small
restaurants in Paris. An ivy covered gem
secluded in the Latin Quarter hills with some of the coziest ambience in Paris,
Le Coupe Chou lends itself to a most satisfying evening. The library section is the most appealing
room in what seems to be a labyrinth of pleasant dining areas so don’t be fearful of being relegated to this part of the
restaurant. The two course menu runs around 26 euros. Three courses are 31 euros. The food is delightful so I would make this a
sure stop in Paris. If you like steak
tartar I find it to be the best I have ever tasted. Le Coupe Chou is hard to
find so bring your map! Just come up out
of the metro and turn toward the center of St.Germaine. Go a half block and turn left up the hill. About a block and a half up you will see the
tiny street, Rue Lanneau.
L’Atelier Nieuport has replaced my one favorite Maison de
Campagne.
Address: 11, rue Edouard
Nieuport. 92130 Suresnes
Tel: 01 4506 0409
I will go here next time as I loved Maison
de Campagne. It has moved and changed it’s name.
ROSEBUD
A new find from my friend who lives in
Paris and has been going there for years.
I will add the information about this restaurant during the coming
days. It is an old establishment with
wonderful food and is a trusted venue by many Parisians for a long time.
L’ARDOISE
28 Rue du Mont Thabor
Tel: 01 42 96 28 18
Metro: Tuileries
Tucked away on the parallel street to
Rue de Rivoli you will discover a “tresor” of a restaurant with a 32 euro menu. Each plate is served with such a lovely presentation. The portions are sizeable. I started with a melon and port. I received the entire melon cut in two halves
with a large glass of port to pour into the scooped out center. It was a certainly a generous amount. I had a salmon filet cut like a large steak
filet. It was wrapped in bacon and
placed on a bed of julliened vegetables.
I cannot begin to tell you how wonderful the salmon tasted with the
bacon. I had never had salmon prepared
this way. The meal ended with what
seemed to be a crème brulee with
fruit and crème fresh served
in a martini type glass. I did not have
wine as the evening was so warm. Water
sufficed My second visit I had the house
wine. Always a delightful meal. The room is small but there is a downstairs
area.
LESCURE
7 Rue de Mondavi 42-60-18-91
Metro: Concorde
Lescure is a tiny restaurant near the
Crillion Hotel and the American Embassy at the Place de Concorde. As you approach the front you see a huge
awning and a big menu card outside. This
is deceiving as to the size of this establishment. The menu is reasonably priced but the place
is so small there is hardly room to change your mind! The itty-bitty room houses the bar, the
kitchen, and places for about 36 people to dine. Do make reservations so that you can get a
table. They will work you in without one but you may sit with other people
(which can be entertaining). You are so close to the other diners even if you
get your own table you might as well be sitting with them anyway! Make sure they put you with the French and
not other tourists. The food is quite nice but plain fare. I had a great tasting lamb steak. Although the cut was a little fatty it had a
lot of flavor. The grilled vegetables
served as an accompaniment were so tasty I would go back for those alone. I started with a goat cheese salad that had
mounds of goat cheese slathered over the top. If you have to wait to get in
this tiny place treat yourself to coffee ahead of time at the bar off the lobby
of the Crillion. In the afternoon they
have a harpist playing in the lobby bar of this most swank of the Paris hotels.
LES
PHILOSOPHES
28
Rue de Vielle du Temple 48-87-49-84
Le Marais district, Metro: St. Paul
Just down the street from Au Gamin de
Paris is another very reasonably priced place to dine because of its Prix Fixe
menu. There is a 16 euros menu for two
courses and 20 euro menu for three. (This is now a specific choice.) They have
recently refurbished the interior so all is new in the interior. They have
finally made a large seating area outside to make an even more pleasant place to
dine in temperate weather. The food is
excellent and plentiful considering it’s
low cost. Be sure and walk over to Place
de Voges in Le Marais while you are here to experience this lovely square; once
the residential area of royalty. While
you are in this section of Paris give yourself a special treat and stop in the
gem of a museum called the Musee de Carnavalet ( 23 rue de Sevigne). Le Marias is also the main gay district in
Paris so you will find a lot of interesting shops and an eclectic crowd in the
area.
LE
BISTROT de BRETEUIL
3
Place de Breteuil 45 67 07 27
Metro: Duroc
For 32 euros you get everything at
this excellent restaurant in the very up-scale 7th arrendismont. This very attractive restaurant overlooks
the Place de Breteuil. The “Place” is a pretty
square with a large statute in the middle making for a very tranquil
setting. The square is not far from Les
Invalides and the Tour Eiffel. When you
sit down the staff gives you an aperitif.
You are then handed a menu from which you choose an entree, main course
and then dessert. (Remember, they will take the dessert choice after you have
finished the main course.) A bottle of wine comes with the meal to be split
between two people. The dishes are
delicious. You cannot go wrong choosing
from most of the selections on the menu from the salad with goat cheese as a
starter to the crème brulee for
dessert. . Fish is done quite nicely here.
The portions are a good size and the main course comes with a
vegetable. At the end of the meal you
are also offered coffee, which is included in the price. I have dined in this
restaurant quite frequently and I always enjoy an evening here.
A
la Biche au Bois
45, avenue Ledru-Rollin (12th)
Tél:
01 43 43 34 38
We were taken to this very traditional
French restaurant by two art dealers in Paris.
For 29 Euros you will savor a three course "menu" cooked in
the old style you remember from Julia Child's cookbooks. They also throw in a cheese course right
before the dessert with a cheese board the size of Cleveland. The servings are huge. You may wish to share your meal if you think
you can get away with it without being too "gauche". You will eat traditional oeuf mayonnaise to
coq au vin and boeuf bourguignon. The
steak frites is also a magnificently sized portion of beef. The decor is as traditional as the food. Because the price point is so good the place
is packed even though it is not in the most trendy part of Paris. Do make a reservation as a result.
(Thing to do: Take the canal trip up
Canal St. Martin. Starts in the marina
near the Opera Bastille. And walk along the Canal itself for the Sunday
market.)
THE
FLO CHAIN
1.BRASSERIE
FLO:
7, cour des Petites-Ecuries: Tel 01 47 70
13 59
Metro:
Chateau D’Eau
This is one of seven in the Flo chain of
restaurants that I am aware of; Brasserie Flo is the first of the group. All of the members of the Flo chain have
really good food and usually offer a prix fix menu (usually 32 euros for three
courses that include a half bottle of wine) that will be mid-priced by Paris
standards. The service will be
orchestrated. You will find the waiters
in Paris are very well trained. The restaurants will usually occupy historical
sites. The people watching is always
great. You can be assured of an
interesting evening with good food at any of their venues. Brasserie Flo is very pretty. It is decorated
in sort of a sepia tone which makes it almost smoky looking. You sort of feel you have dropped in on a 30’s movie set.
Although you “own” the table for the evening in most French restaurants
you will find the service very well timed.
I have not been disappointed by a meal in any of the Flo’s. Don’t forget that coffee always comes AFTER dessert so you
won’t look like an American tourist asking where it is when
the dessert is served.
2.
JULIEN:
16, rue du Faubourg St.-Denis: Tel 01 47
70 12 06
Metro: Strasbourg St. Denis
Julien is not in a good area but it is
one of my “faves” of the Flo group.
The building is preserved by the French historical governing body. The restaurant walls are painted with
pastoral murals in beautiful light, pastel colors. You feel like you are in late 1800’s museum. I find
Julien one of the more fun of the group.
It is open after the theater and tends to get crowded later in the
evening. The food is so good and the
crowd is so fun to watch that I always enjoy a meal here. You just have to push by prostitutes if you
decide to walk back to Les Halles for an after-dinner drink. If you don’t
mind the area you will enjoy this place immensely. The restaurant is a short walk from the
Metro. The area is safe, just unsavory
See the Marmotin Museum; It is a
darling small museum in the Bois de Bologne with many of Monet’s works. Boat on
the boat pond in the Bois de Bologne.
While in the park take the small barge trip on Lac Superior to the
little island in the middle of the and stop for a coffee at the
restaurant. The barge trip takes two
minutes at the most.
3.
LA COUPOLE:
102 Blvd. Montparnasse: Tel 01 43
20 14 20
Metro: Gare Montparnasse
La Coupole is an old, well-known
restaurant in Montparnasse that was purchased by the Flo group a few years
ago. It was always trendy and still
seems to hold on to that reputation. It
is a very large restaurant but “the feel” is more compartmentalized so don’t be put off by its size. They have a menu “Quatre Seasons”. It is quite reasonable by Parisian
standards. For 32 euros you will have
three courses and a half bottle of wine.
This includes tip and tax. As it
is a seasonal menu it seems likely that it must be changed for each of the four
seasons. The food at all the Flo
restaurants is reliably good. The wait staff is friendly and very
efficient. I would like to have a
birthday party here because they dim the lights in the entire restaurant to
start the presentation. A parade of
waiters singing “Bon Anniversare” escort a large cake and a spouting sparkler. Everyone in the restaurant applauds
the birthday person (who says the French
are not fun!). The sidewalk cafe seems
to be an interesting place to sit and have a drink on a summer day. La Coupole’s location is right on Boulevard Montparnasse so you
will have a perch to see the eclectic crowd going by.
4.
VAUDVILLE:
29, rue Vivienne: Tel 01 40 70 13 59
Metro: Bourse
The Bourse is the Paris stock
exchange. Vaudeville was my least
favorite of the group. I think it was
because my brother ordered oursins and ate it in front of me. When you order cold seafood from a brasserie;
which this is, they bring it on a large platter sitting on a bed of ice. The platter is then placed on the top of a
stand bringing the whole content to eye level.
Oursin is sea urchin. If you
haven’t seen sea urchin served cold you are in for a not so
delightful experience. They are black
blobs with hanging tendrils and polyps dangling from the tendrils. Yuck! Watching my brother consume them
spoiled my meal. I am sure the food was
as good as the rest of the places in the Flo chain but I need to give this one
a second chance, sans oursin. The view
of the stock exchange is very nice as it is “en
face” of this old and beautiful building. Vaudeville is very, very art deco. This style
is not my favorite as far as decor is concerned. Again, the oursin may have colored my experience
so I will go again and report back. (I have been again. It is much better without the polyps!)
5.
BOFINGER
5-7
Rue de Bastille 42-72-87-82
Metro: Bastille
This is a very pretty brasserie in the
area where the Bastille was formerly located.
It is near the very modern and interesting new Paris opera house. Do make reservations so you will be seated on
the first floor. They have a no smoking
section and it is the prettiest of the downstairs rooms. The first floor is frequented by the
tres-chic French yuppie set. To me the
second floor makes you feel like you have been relegated to the back room. The second floor room is large and light and
very pleasant but I prefer to be downstairs.
A brasserie in Paris typically has a large bank of fresh seafood on
crushed ice sitting outside so you can peruse your seafood selection before
entering the establishment. Bofinger has
a large display making the entrance a feast for the eyes. This is an Alsatian
brasserie, which means it takes its menu largely from the Alsace-Lorraine area
of France. The region is predominately
Germanic in feel. As a result you will
fine choucroute on the menu (sauerkraut and sausage), which will let you get
out the door for a very reasonable price.
Otherwise, there are many traditional French dishes and of course the
huge seafood selection. You can get a
good meal for mid- priced standards here.
6. BOEUF SUR Le TROIT:
34, rue du Colisee: Tel: 43 59 83 80
Metro: FD Roosevelt
A classic old restaurant and part of
the Flo chain; this particular one occupies a spot in the upscale part of
town. It is very near Rue St. Honore
Fauborg. Many of the design houses are
occupants of this famous rue. The
restaurant itself is still hosting a chic crowd. There is a piano near the entrance of the
restaurant. The piano music apparently
attracts a smart looking group in the evenings.
The food was very good and the decor was right out of an old movie, a
little dark but slickly Parisian. There
is a prix fix menu, which allows you out the door at a reasonable cost for
Paris (about 32 euros) and the location.
7.
TERMINUS NORD:
23, rue de Dunerque: Tel 01 42 85 05 15
Metro: Gare du Nord
Located right across the street from
the train station, Gare du Nord, this is the lightest of the Flo group. Not the darker, duskier look of all but
Julien. Terminus Nord is light and
humming. I had a very tasty dinner. Many of the tables lined the far wall so you
were close to the other diners. This
enabled a pleasant conversation with those patrons on each side. Why come to Paris if you are not going to mix
somewhat with the natives? I think this
one is worth a look -see. Especially if
you are coming back through the station from one of the many day trips you can
take out of Paris. We stopped here
coming back from the castle at Chantilly.
Do go to this magical Chateau near the racetrack in Chantilly and stop
for a really nice meal on the way home at Terminus Nord.
Don’t forget to go to Aux Trois Maillets piano bar in the
Latin Quarter.
XVIeme AVENUE
45, ave. Raymond
Poincare
Tel: 01 47 27 72 19
Metro:
Victor Hugo
If you just want to duck in a nice
place in a toney neighborhood for a 9 or
10 euro salad or a hefty three course meal for 22 euros you can take a few
block walk down from the Arc de Triomphe or Tracadaro or the nearby Place Victor Hugo to this nice,
upscale place to have a quick bite. It
has the posh feel of a Costes venue but the
price is much more reasonable.
I would stop here when you just
want to keep your evening a bit shorter but still have a satisfying meal. The courses are large and the service is
quick. I had a tomato, basil and goat
cheese tart followed by a huge piece of salmon béarnaise on top of a large amount of spinach. The profiteroles were the size of small
baseballs.
Enjoy!
L’ENTRECOTE (Le
Relais de l’Entrecote)
Metro:
Porte Maillot -20. rue Saint-Benoit -01 45 49 16 00
Metro: George V, 15 Rue Marbeuf - 01
49 52 07 17
There are several of these “Steak Only”
restaurants scattered around Paris. They
are always packed to the rafters so be there at when they open at 7:00 p.m. if
you want to get right in. You get at
least two servings of steak in a delicious garlicky sauce, a mound of pomme
frits, a salad and wine for a very moderate fixed price. Be sure to order one
of the scrumptious desserts. The wait staff seems to be most cordial and handle
the crowd with aplomb. The restaurant sites themselves are well kept up and
look like any nice Parisian “endoit”. I always enjoy having a steak here.
I have tried L’Entrecote near
the Champs Elysees and the one down from the Etoile many times. You will pay
about 23 euros for the meal including a glass of wine. The one located at Port Maillot will have a
sign that says Relais de Venise. You
will also see the words Entrecote on the red awning. Don't be fooled by the
conflicting names. ( It is located very near the metro stop.)
THE
BUDDA BAR
Metro: Concord
Down the street next to the Crillion
Hotel look for the Budda Bar. Around
10 PM all the “swells” come in for a
drink and to munch the chips on the
table.
Dinner will be expensive here
but you need to stop here just for a
drink and to see the oh so smart crowd.
Come early if you want to sit and
just to enjoy the ambience of an old
and well known hang out in this ritzy
part of Paris. The music mix is well
known.
It seems to be Asian Fusion
You can buy the CD at Budda
Bar or on Amazon.com
L’MANGUIRER
51 rue du Theatre
01 45 48 49 16
Also at 20, blvd Montmartre, 46 blvd.
Montparnasse, 43 ave. des Ternes, 12 Ave Madrid, 62 av. JB Clement
Metro: Charles Michel
“The place with the green awning.” This is a
reliable chain. There are locations
throughout the city but the one in the 15th is the one all the crews dip into
for an inexpensive but generally good meal.
You can get a full three course meal with a glass of wine for around $25. The staff is used to Americans and very
friendly.... at least in this location.
I have not tried the other restaurants in this chain.
POINTS OF
INTEREST…MUST SEES
While taking your tours in Paris you
should be sure and see Parc de Monceau.
It is one of the prettiest parks in Paris. Just get off at Metro stop Monceau.
After visiting the park be sure to walk
over to the Musee de Camondo (63 rue de Monceau) and also the Musee Jacquemart
L’Andre at 158 Blvd. Haussmann. (Metro Miromoesnil) These are two very
special little museums that will make your Paris visit even more special.
Also do try FAT TIRE bike tours. Taking a bike tour
is a wonderful way to overview the city.
No experience needed! Check out
the tours and prices at www.FatTireBikeTours.com .
This is tres fun and such a delightful
way to see the city on a summer day or evening.
CAFÉ MARLEY AT THE LOUVRE
Be sure and stop at the café when you visit the Louvre. A casual lunch is reasonably priced. The Steak Tartar is a definite must.
Do not forget to see the Museum of
Decorative Arts while you are in this area.
It is attached to the Louvre.
The museum includes the tour guide machine in
the cost of the ticket.
AUBERGE
DU BONHEUR, The Bois de Bologne
Metro: Porte D’Auteuil or Porte Maillot. Behind la “Grande Cascade”
Tel:01 42 24 10 17 Fax 01 42 88 99 06
Well worth the trek to find this place
in the lovely “Central Park” of Paris. It is
located right behind the French version of Tavern on the Green, the restaurant
La Grande Cascade. La Grande Cascade is
located near a charming little waterfall. (Ergo the name La Cascade). The
dining here is quite expensive but if you just look behind this lovely building
you will find another lovely little establishment where the price is
right! A very well priced set menu and a
beautiful garden will make your summer evening as pleasant as can be. Have coffee on the terrace at La Cascade and
then congratulate yourself on maneuvering out of a pricey meal but remaining in
the same cerebral setting by going to the Restaurant de Bonheur. You are across the street from the Paris
racetrack of Longchamp. It is probably
best to take a cab from the Port Maillot area as it is about a two-mile
walk. You may wish to take a cab home
for sure as the transvestite prostitutes start to appear at the periphery of
the park around 7 PM. You will find the area an interesting sight
and not unsafe as the police seem to be out in force tacitly accepting this
nightly ritual. It is probably better to “drive
it” than walk back to the metro.
CLOISERIE
DES LILAS, Ave. Montparnasse
Metro: RR Denfert Rochereau- right
across the street from this Metro stop.
Apparently the French movie stars are
known to frequent this restaurant. It
has the feel of a garden and the service is attentive but it is on the
expensive side. HERE IS THE TRICK....
Eat in the small area or that is the
first room you enter as you come in the door or in the bar. You hear the same
pianist; you eat from the same kitchen and have nearly the same atmosphere for a
third of the price. Here is another
trick.... figuring out who is a movie
star! Most Americans would mot know who
is who in the French movie world if we fell on top of them except for all but
the most well know. I think you will
still enjoy the surroundings, the music and the food. (I suggest you just “cocktail” here. It can be
a tad
pricey....even in the bar area)
NOS
ANCETRES LES GAULOIS
39,
Rue Saint Louis-en-l’Ile, Ile Saint
Louise, 01-46-33-66-07/12
A little gimmicky but lots of
fun. This restaurant is supposedly
taking you back to dining in the era of the Gauls. For about 35 euros you will find yourself surviving
an eat-a-thon. You should make a
reservation or go very late to get in (or perhaps very early). You enter a packed restaurant to be led into
many chambers or caves to dine. If you
are claustrophobic you may wish to sit upstairs and not down in the cavernous
areas below. You will definitely be
sitting with other people unless you bring your own large group so be prepared
for a lively evening. Everyone seems to
come here to socialize as well as eat great quantities of food.
You start out with a HUGE basket of
vegetables and a large basket of bread.
Salad dressing on the table allows you to make a salad or munch directly
out of the basket and dip in the dressing.
At the same time you are seated you are handed a large wine
pitcher. Go to the wine keg and
fill-er-up! (Actually the wine is pretty
good.) When you finish eating the salad
your next trip is to a table filled with country sausage and pate. You can take as much as you want. Be cautious however as much more is to
come. Then your main course arrives
which you ordered on being seated. Lamb
chops, leg of lamb, brochette and a couple of other dishes are cooked on a big
fire pit. As a result of this style of
cooking you get a delicious barbecue flavor to your meat. The main dish comes with a side of vegetables
and rice. As if that is not enough an
extremely large cheese platter arrives at your table when the main course has
been cleared. Again, take as much as you
like as this platter is for your table.
End with desserts chocolate mousse, crème brulee, or sorbet and then you will waddle out the
front door. Check this place out on the
Internet.
L’Affiche
49 rue Le Marois
Tel: 01 46 51 93 44
Metro: Porte de St. Cloude
Located in the oh so chic 16
arrendissmont this retro bar brasserie is a favorite of Anne Marie Rousseau.
Besides the reasonable prices I loved
the fact that you could choose your side dish. The mound of beans they gave me
was amazing. We did not have a starter.
The portions were very large so we
were glad we did not order another dish. I never order a starter in the U.S.
and I tend to forget I do not have to have all that food in Europe either. Since my main course was a mere 12 euros the
meal was quite reasonable with just a glass of house wine and a coffee after
diner. Do drop in this cozy restaurant
when you are in this darling area near the Bois de Bologone
LE FUMIOR
6 , rue de l’Admiral Coligny, Place du Louvre
Tel. 01 42 92 00 24
Metro: Louvre
Facing the very back of the Louvre is
a trendy bar. If you want to see this new IN spot I would suggest you use it as
I do….a convenient place to “rendezvous”
with your friends as it is easy to find with it’s location directly in back of the Louvre. We have a drink and then go to dinner from
our drink. There is a menu but it is mainly a place to have a drink and mingle
with the very attractive French Yuppie set.
People seem pretty affable here so do try and strike up a conversation. It certainly is a good looking crowd.
ANGELINA
Across from the Tuileries metro stop.
(Also in the shopping center of the
Corncorde Lafayette hotel.)
A tearoom across from the Tuilleries
in one of the splendid arcades on Rue de Rivole, Angelina’s is known for the hot chocolate served. It is expensive but soooooo rich and
good. It tastes like they melted a
chocolate bar down and served it to you.
It is so rich you may wish to split a pot. You should try the hot chocolate to assuage
your sweet tooth.
CHEZ
JANOU
2 Rue Roger Verlomme
www.chezjanou.com Tel:
01 42 72 28 41
Nestled in a most charming corner
behind the Place des Voges in Le Marais
is the darling bistrot, Chez
Janou. It serves up a typical French “carte” in casual and
warm surrounding. This is one of my favorites due to the charm and price.
You can have typical bistrot fare with
a bit of a twist. Check the menu out
online.
The staff is friendly and the prices
are quite nice considering the expensive location. Try the mousse for dessert;
especially if you are a big group. It
comes in a huge bowl. They just give you
the whole bowl!
Be sure to see the Victor Hugo house
on Place des Voges while you are strolling the lovely park.
It is a most interesting house. As in most Paris museums the hand held guide
comes with the price of the entrance
.
B-LE
BISTROT D’EN FACE
24,
rue du Docteur Finlay, Tel: 01 45 77 14 59
Metro: Dupleix or Bir Hakeim
Ma Bagorre was the former name of B-Le
Bistrot d’en Face. It was on my list as a place that served food
from southern France. That has all
changed with a new owner and new décor.
The same red and white checked curtains remain at the front which is almost all
glass. It is so nice when the windows are open in the summer gently blowing the
curtains a bit and giving you the feeling that you are dining outside. The restaurant is much more upscale now and
very charming. The prices have escalated
a bit but the food remains excellent.
The main courses run in the 13 euro range while the entrees (appetizers)
cost around 9 euros. I started with goat cheese en croute on a bed
of lettuce followed by a delicious Cajun chicken. The others at my table raved about the sandre
(fish) and the duck. The desserts in the
6 euro range were sinful. The location a
few blocks from the Eiffel Tower but hidden on a small side street make it a
nice diversion in a touristy area.
THE
LATIN QUARTER
Another
Area to Explore: Take the metro
to Maubert-Mutualitie. With your back to
the Seine turn right and then a quick left and go up the hill to see The
Pantheon. It is an amazing building that seems to explode out of the ground. The housed remains of many famous Frenchmen
are interred here. Or turn left and then
take a quick right and go uphill towards The Ecole Polytechnique. You will run in to Rue Descartes that turns
in to Rue Mufftard. There are a plethora
of cute little restaurants of every type on these series of streets that run
one into the other. You can even find
Tibetan food! On Rue Mufftard you will
find one of several restaurants featuring food of the Savonyard region of
France. I call this food you play
with. Raclette; a cheese you melt in
small ovens. The ovens made specifically
for this purpose are plugged into your table.
You will be served boiled potatoes and small pickles with your cheese. You melt the cheese and put it on your potato
and have fun eating this fun food. You
can order thin slices of ham or other accompaniments. Au Piano Muet is the suggested venue but you
will find a few other Savonyard specialty places on these streets. As this is part of the Latin Quarter, which
is also the student area, you will find that the cost of the food is very
cheap. Most places have three course
meals for fewer than 20 euros....usually about 14 euros. You can’t
take the food too seriously but the area is fun and the food is good for the
price. (Try Au Petit Bistrot at 89, Rue Mufftard - it has a three course 14
Euro menu.
.
CHALET
DES ISLE, Lac Inferieur in the Bois de Boulogne
The Boise de Boulogne is the Central
Park of Paris as mentioned before. Look
on your map and find the two little lakes stating that they are Lac Superior or
Inferior. Lake Superior is the boating
lake and despite it’s name is not
particularly large. When you get to the
side of the lake look for a small barge, which takes you to the middle of the
lake for a few Euro charge. The barge
will take you for a short ride to a small island in the middle of the
lake upon which sits the restaurant Chalet des Isle. I have never eaten here but I go frequently
for a drink in the afternoon. It is so
pleasant to sit on the patio and admire the efforts of the rowers in their
rental boats wafting by. The park is a
beautiful spot to spend the afternoon and this is a marvelous place to just sit
quietly, have a beverage and admire the surroundings.
DEUX
MAGOTS or CAFE FLORE
Metro: Mabillon
These two cafes used to, and sometimes
still do, attract the glitterary of the writing world. Hemingway used to “hang” at Cafe Flore as
did many of the world’s other famous
writers. A drink at either cafe is not
cheap but both are good drop off places from the wonderful shopping in the area
of St. Germain du Pres. One can sit in these sidewalk cafes and watch the world
go by. They say if you sit on the Champs
Elysees long enough you will see everyone you have ever known. This area is a little more serene and you
will probably see these self same old friends wander over here too! I prefer Deux Magots because it is right on
the corner. Either place is a good place to “see
and be seen”. Don’t
expect warm and ingratiating service but with a big enough smile (and a little
more of a “pourboire” - TIP - above the tip included in the price) the
waiters do warm up a bit.
A HELPFUL HINT Remember; check in any European country to see if the
tip is included if it is not clearly marked on the menu if it is or is
not......then always leave a bit more for good service.
Are
you in the mood for a Soufflé?
36, rue du Mont-Thabor Tel:
01 42 60 27 19 Fax: 01 42 60 54
98
Metro: Concorde (located near the
Crillion Hotel)
LE
SOUFFLE is just what its
name implies; a restaurant that serves a great variety of soufflés. You can have
them as a main course or as a dessert.
This light and fluffy meal is a nice change. Le Soufflé
also serves the normal fare as a main course but I am not sure why one would
not stay with the rational for the restaurants existence. The dining rooms are a little well lit for my
taste but I enjoyed the soufflés as a change of
pace. The service is very good and the
food is well priced. Why not give this
place a try as almost no one attempts cooking these at home anymore so this is
the place to have a perfectly turned out soufflé.
LE
MONTEVERDI
5-7
m rue Guisarde, Tel. 01 42 34 55 90
Metro: Mabillion
I am Italianed out as far as
restaurants go so I am a bit jaded about another dish of pasta. However, this restaurant is located in a
section that looks like it might be the Paris version of Little Italy. There are lots of Italian eateries in this
few square blocks not far from L’Eglise(church)
St. Sulpice. I ducked in Le Monteverdi
because it was so cozy looking. During a
winters day it will be a nice, comfortable place to be warmed by the atmosphere
alone. A pianist plays during the dinner
hours adding to the kitschy, homey feel to the surroundings. On the way to “les toilettes”
I saw several pictures of Generals and Admirals from the American Armed Forces
who had dined and enjoyed the time they spent and took the time to comment to
the owner via letter and accompanying pictures.
If four star military likes it that much what can I say! Besides, the three courses 25 euros menu
makes any meal taste better. This is
inexpensive for Paris. I started with
mozzarella and tomato salad. It was
pretty much the standard salad of this type that I have sampled in every
Italian restaurant. The portion could have fed two people as it was larger than
most. (I chickened out having the
terrine of wild boar to start.) I
followed by the special Gorgonzola gnocchi.
It was saturated with the cheese so it was quite good. Tiramisu was my dessert choice. I would say that this is a nice change from a
French meal if you are in Paris for a long time and are looking for a food
diversion. This is good wholesome
Italian fare, not gourmet but a fine evening meal. ( I have been back and had
the huge plate of pesto pasta. Really good.)
A
Point to Keep in Mind: Remember that all
meal prices quoted include tax and tip unlike the United States. When you keep this in mind the prices are as
reasonable as most U.S. restaurants.
(I
always suggest everyone leave just one Euro more than their portion of the
dinner bill for the pourboire (additional tip for good service)
SEBILLON
NEUILLY
20, Ave. Charles de Gaulle
Tel: 01 46 24 71 31
Metro: Porte Maillot or
SEBILLON ELYSEES
66,rue Pierre
Charron
Tel: 01 43 59 28 15
Metro: George V
Sebillon Neuilly ( or Sebillon Elysee) is its name and lamb is its
game. This is a pretty art deco
restaurant/ brasserie
which has a really nice gimmick for 23
Euros……all the lamb you can eat! They bring an entire leg of lamb to the table
and carve up the whole thing for four of us.
It came with white fagoli beans.
Make sure to order it rare if you want it pink.
They offer even more lamb if you can possibly finish the large portion
on the first plate. The lamb was
delicious
Promenade
Plantee
A
must see.
Take some time to go to the Bastille
to walk the Promenade Plantee: an elevated path that runs the top of a viaduct
about three miles to Vincennes.
three miles to Vincennes. It is a is planted with flowers and decorated
with trellises. You get a bit of a birds-eye
view of the lovely apartments
along the way. Below the viaduct are wonderful art shops and
studios as well as cafes for a refreshment.
LA
BOUSSOLE
12
Rue Guisarde, Tel. 01 56 24 82
Metro: Mabillon
Right down the street from Monteverdi
we found this charming little French bistro.
It is light to Moneverdi’s dark
charm. The walls are all a light stone
with beautiful modern light fixtures that give the “old feel” of the stone
walls a very updated look. The front of
the restaurant opens into the street.
You have a bit of a taste of the south of France with its light, airy
charm. The food is very fresh. The first time I was here I had the
salmon. I asked them to hold the rice so
they gave me a mound of broccoli with a rich butter sauce covered piece of
salmon. I started with aubergine
(eggplant) in a cheese crust while the others began their dinner with the goat
cheese on pastry topping a salad vert.
All this for 18 euros. Three
courses would have been 23 euros but it was too much food to have dessert
although the dessert menu looked good.
On subsequent visits I have had the lamb and the chicken main dish. All have been nicely prepared. Wine is not
included but the wine menu is varied and the prices are in line with the menu,
reasonable.
HOTEL
COSTES
239 Rue St. Honore
Metro: Concorde
A drink in the courtyard of this chic
little hotel makes for a delightful afternoon.
The decor alone makes this hotel a worthwhile visit. It looks as if it is out of the late 1800’s but also is modern at the same time. I did not check out the price of a room but I
imagine it is in the $300 on up range. A
nice glass of Bruilly in the open-air courtyard in the center of the hotel is
affordable however. The crowd is very
attractive as this is the St. Honore area of expensive shops and designer
ateliers. This is such a visual
experience that those of you with an eye for the all the interesting will find
a feast.
(I have checked out the menu prices.
It is not at all unreasonable price wise to think about eating here.
More
Places to dine...
RESTAURANT
CHEZ JULIEN
Angle
1, rue du Pont-Louis-Philippe and 62, rue de l”Hotel de Ville
Tel: 01 42 78 31 64 or Fax 01 42 74 39
30
Apparently this darling facade was
pictured in an American Express ad. It
faces Isle St. Louis and looks like it should be in an ad with its picturesque
setting. Reasonably priced with a 32
euro menu (sans wine; but IT is well priced also). The menu includes an entree, main course and
dessert. The atmosphere was darkly
romantic. You feel as if you are dining
in an old French film. The food was
delicious. I started with sautéed mushrooms. The
sauce on my chicken was delightful. My
companions were equally complementary of their main courses. I had a chocolate dessert that was
yummy. The service was charming and
friendly. I think you cannot go wrong
stopping in for a most satisfying meal in visually rich surroundings. (They
have redecorated. The prices have gone up. It is still such a nice setting in the
evening that you may want to spend a little more for dinner just for the
ambiance….and then you may
not!)
LE
BISTROT DU 7eme
55,
blvd. de LaTour-Maubourg
Phone 01 45 51 93 08 Metro: Invalides
or Champ de Mars
Now here is a deal! For 18 euros you can have a three course meal
in a lovely bistro that looks as if it should be twice as expensive especially
considering it is in the oh so che- che 7th arrendissmont. As it is located between the Champ de Mars
(the park leading up to the Eiffel Tower) and Les Invalides this little bistro
is so surprisingly well priced. The food
is good for the price; not gourmet but after all this is a 14 euro “menu”. The first time I was here I started with a
Greek mushroom salad and ended with chevre cheese for desert. They did not mind that I substituted green
beans (haricot vert) for the pomme frites (French fries) with my main course of
veal in a mushroom sauce. The menu is
extensive and a demi carafe of a light, dry Rhone wine nicely made this place “a find”. interesting but The demi carafe was even too
much wine. Do duck in here for a
reasonably priced meal in the usually very expensive 7th arrendissmont. (I have
eaten here a number of times since this report.
Do try this bistro if you are watching your pennies.)
LE
ZINC D’HONORE
36
Place du Marche St. Honore
For a meal in the 17 euros
range in the same area walk down to the cafe with the yellow awning. Le Zinc d’Honore at 36 place du Marche St-Honore. The menu board is impossible to read but if
you can decipher it you can have quite a nice meal in the “el cheapo”
price range. The portions are
large. The meal costs 18 euros for three
courses. The sauces on the main “plats” and the
accompanying vegetables are comparable to those of more expensive
brasseries. The desserts are well worth
the trip to this salon de tea/brasserie for those alone. The salads are large and the bread is plentiful. This will be a good place to watch your
budget. I end up here quite a bit as I
like the location in this darling square.
The square alone is worth a foray from the Tuileries Metro stop. I also think the food is a lot of “bang for the buck”. It will impress your friends that
1. You can find this place.
2. Have such a good meal at this
price.
LE
GRAND COLBERT
2-4
rue Vivienne
Tel: 01 42 86 87 88 Fax 01 42 86 82 65
Metro: Palais Royal or Bourse
The very fine looking bartender at Le
Man Ray recommended this restaurant to me so of course I had to try it. Hop off at the Palais Royal metro stop and
walk through this wonderful quadrangle with interesting shops and
apartments. Coco Chanel once lived
here. Walk past the ever so expensive
restaurant, Le Grand Vefour and up to rue Vivienne. Then unbuckle your belt and be prepared for manly-man portions at Le Grand
Colbert. No nouvelle cuisine sized
portions here! You can have three
courses for 28 euros on their “Menu”. This allowed a wonderful view of the most eclectic
groups of people I have ever seen entering a Parisian eatery. I found the restaurant quite grand with its
high ceilings, tablecloths and set wine glasses yet the patrons were very
casual for Paris. Ergo, if you feel like
dressing down you won’t be
uncomfortable here. The food was quite
good and, as I said, plentiful. I
started with a glass of wine. They
brought olives to enjoy with my drink..
The table was also set with rolls which they kept replacing as you
finished each piece. My first course was a large piece of goat cheese that was
surrounded by crispy filo dough sitting on a bed of lettuce salad. My next course was carre d’agneau (lamb).
The portion was also very large.
It came with a big side dish of dauphine potatoes. Grilled vegetables accompanied the lamb. This was quite a meal! The service was very attentive. Le Grand Colbert is not a place to watch your
diet. Do gear up your appetite and chow
down here sometime! (I now suggest Le
Grand Colbert for lunch only as I found it has gotten more pricey after people
found out that the movie Something’s
Got to Give was filmed here. It is still worth a visit and quite fun for lunch.
LE
CAFE RENARD
Le
Jardin des Tuileries
Tel. 01 42 96 50 56 Fax: 01 42 96 28 56
Metro: Concorde
On a beautiful summer night you cannot
find a more delightful place to eat than under the beautiful chestnut trees in
Le Jardin des Tuileries. You will find
four little umbrella covered table areas and their supporting food kiosks in
the park but three are mainly for ice cream and salads. Le Café
Renard is an actual restaurant where you can have a hot meal. That fact has
brought me back again and again because it is the right price for a hearty
meal. Sit underneath the umbrellas in
the evening and let the candlelight reflect your gaze to the sculptures on the
manicured lawn to the side. I like this
setting so much I even found myself splashing through a rain storm praying that
my silk sundress was washable silk to have another grilled rump steak perfectly
cooked. I dipped the thick cut fries in
my béarnaise sauce that accompanied the steak. At the cost of 14 euros you are going to
enjoy a nice dining experience.
This is not gourmet, just a reliable meal
deal. Add a mixed salad for 4 euros and
a small carafe of Beaujolais Village (two glasses worth) for another 4 euros.
L’ABSINTHE
24,
place du Marche Saint-Honore
Tel: 01 49 26 90 04 Fax 01 49 26 08 64
Metro: Concorde
Place du Marche Saint-Honore is such a
cute area that it is well worth taking a gander here. It is a block or two off of Place Vendome
near the Ritz Hotel of Diana fame. L’Absinthe is one of the Michel Rostang group of eating
establishments. I understand that he is
a well-known chef. This place is tres
cute especially in summer when you can sit on the square. The fixed price “Menu” for three
courses is 31 euros (25 euros for two courses ) The food is interesting in
terms of its preparation. The flavors
and textures are modern and imaginative for a less expensive restaurant. I found the wine choice selected by our
waiter to be most drinkable. I asked for
a Brouilly but was led to his choice at the same moderate price. The service on my first visit did start out a
bit slowly but picked up quite nicely once the influx of patrons arriving all
at once got sorted out. My subsequent
visits were all much better in terms of service. I had the duck accompanied by spatzle after
starting with a goat cheese salad. The
duck was really tasty and a very large portion.
One visit I stuffed myself on mushroom pate followed by a wonderful sea
bass on an artichoke puree.
A
LA PETITE CHAISE
36
Rue de Grenelle
Tel: 01 42 22 13 35
Metro: Severes Babylone or Metro Bac
This place bills itself as the oldest
restaurant in Paris. For a very
reasonable 28 euros you will have a delightful three course meal. (23 euros for
two courses.) The portions are large and the preparation is creative. My lamb dish was very flavorful. My second visit I dined on pork medallions in
a Camembert sauce. I started with the
best onion soup I have ever tasted packed with onions and cheese. As it is certainly an old establishment the
room looks elegantly rustic. At night, however, the main room is a little over
lit, as is the case in a lot of Parisian restaurants. No hiding your flaws here! It is a historic place to dine in the
wonderful area of St. Germaine. For a
little side trip wander down Rue du Bac to the Church of the Miraculous Medal. A prayer in front of the alter promises to
find your wishes granted.
CAFÉ De L’ESPLANADE
52
rue Flaubert
Tel: 01 47 05 38 80
Metro: Tour Maubourg
The people who opened the very chic
Hotel Costes just opened this also very chic restaurant over in the 7th
arrendissmont. Pop out of the metro and
turn right to the end of the block. Then
prepare yourself for some interesting people watching! This area is very upscale so the patrons
reflect the area. The menu is extensive
and eclectic. You can go from an
inexpensive Croque Monsieur on up the price range. You can order casual meals off the menu and
remain in a very reasonable price range.
Being a few blocks from Les Invalides the restaurant reflects the
military theme with canon ball chandeliers and canons as wall decor. This is a fun and interesting place to
eat. Make sure you have a
reservation. This place gets packed.
LE PRE CLERCS
30, Rue Bonaparte
Tel: 01 43 54 41
73
Metro: St.
Germaine de Pres
Oh, la, la
ladies. I stop here to ogle the good
looking waiters and to have a drink at a place that is half the price of Deux
Magots up the street by two blocks. I
have not tried the food here but it looks like a good place to go for a casual
meal. I always leave a big “pourboire”
here after eyeing the “eye candy”.
LE POUCHON
GOURMAND
25, rue du
Colisee
Tel: 01 43 59 25 29
Metro: Franklin D. Roosevelt
Some French friends introduced me to
Le Pouchon Gourmand located on a small side street of the Champs Elyses. I cannot say that the atmosphere is the most
intimate and charming but it is not uninviting.
The food however is very good. I
had a Turbot bathed in an olive tapanade that was quite delicious. I had started with a goat cheese salad. Both the entrée and main course were a “goodly” size. The main courses ran about 14 euros and the
entrees (appetizers) were in the 7 euro range.
The French version of beef stew was very tasty. The salmon main dish looked very good. The portions are all quite large. A carafe of the house red rounded out what
turned out to be a nice dining experience both times I have visited.
LES GOURMETS DES
TERNES
87 blvd de
Courcelles
01 42 27 43 05
Metro: Place des Ternes
Closed Sat. and Sun.
A very lovely French couple said that
you could have the best steak in Paris at Les Gourmets des Ternes. After having the steak au poivre here I
believe them. It seems as if they take a
huge filet mignon and cut it in half to serve to each customer. It is served sitting on a liberal pool of the
au poivre sauce. Delicious! I started with artichoke hearts in a mustard
vinaigrette dressing. This starter can
be shared. Whatever you do don’t ask for the steak to be cooked well done. I think they will toss you out on your
ear. The owner, Mr. Marie, was a little
put off by someone asking for the filet to be cooked medium. I think you can
get away with “medium rare” without being asked to leave.
Mr. Marie and his attractive son seem
to be carrying on a nightly fight according to my friends. I am not sure what could be the matter but it
adds to the interest of the evening.
There are no Americans here.
The place is packed nightly so you
must make a reservation. The steak au
poivre is 22 euros. If you split the
artichoke hearts at 7 euros and don’t
go crazy with the wine order you can stay under my 30 euro mark.
A
COUPLE OF RESTAURANTS IN THE 10TH.
(
Metro: Republique )
HOTEL
DU NORD
102 Quai de Jemmapes
01 40 0 78 78
The canal that runs through the 10
from the 12th (Bastille area) is so charming to stroll that it
is well worth going to this restaurant just to experience the canal area in
Paris. To add to the experience you
will end up in what seems to be a trendy
restaurant with an upscale interior and a most delicious menu. The food has a nouvelle feel with larger
portions than nouvelle would normally give you.
The interior has an almost New York feel. The crowd is young and hip. I would make a
reservation so that you know you can get in if you go around 8PM. This was the site of the movie Le Hotel du
Nord. Do check out the website. It is fascinating and will give you an idea
of the ambiance. The menu changes very
frequently. I would definitely stop
here.
LE
SAINTE MARTHE BISTROT
32 Place Sainte-Marthe
Tel: 01 44 84 36 96
No ambiance here. But do check it out for the food. We shared the ample portions so we had a bit
of about seven main course plates.
Everything was scrumptious. The square
is a bit hard to find so take a map.
Also, go in summer when you can sit outside because there is really no ambiance
inside. It is about two blocks up from
the canal. The food is French with an
international twist. You will truly
enjoy a meal here.
Le
Square Trousseau
1 rue Antoine Vollon
Tel: 01 43 43 06 00
www,square trousseau.com
Metro: Bastille
I loved this ever so chic little
bistro nestled in the corner across from a park in the Bastille area. It has an
upscale crowd at a reasonable price.
I had a piece of cod in a hollandaise sauce
that was so light, lemony and airy that I thought I had gone to cod heaven to
be buried in that divine topping. I was
having a bad time with my stomach that evening.
I was trying to stay with soft food.
I was so glad I went to a bit more than the soup I was going to order.
The cod was heavenly.
The prices here are a bit more but if you
order as we do in the U.S. most of the time; without including an appetizer you
can get out the door reasonably. The
main course runs in a bit less than the 20 Euro range. I never order an appetizer at home unless
sharing it because it is too much food.
Feel free to do that in Europe too.
Otherwise you will be packing on the pounds as the courses were a healthy
size.
MELAC
42 Rue Leon Frot
Tel: 01 43 70 59 27
Metro: Republic
Located in the 11th near the canals you will find a small Bistrot
a vins (wine bar) tucked back on a small street. A tad hard to locate you will find it worth
the search. They have a huge selection
of wines and a truly delicious selection of food.
Check out their website. It seems that it may be morphing into a bit
of a different plan. A walk along the
canals will be a most pleasant experience.
AUBERGE
PYRENEES CEVEENES
106 RUE DE LA FOLIE MERICOURT 75011
Tel: 33 1 4357 33 78
Tucked away in the 10th not too far from the lovely Canal St. Martin
is a place that specializes in cassoulets.
This seems to be a neighborhood establishment that is not at all
touristy as a result. The food portions
are huge so I would strongly suggest sharing.
The cassoulet comes in a pan that is
the size of a very large pizza pan in circumference The meals here are large and very
hearty. I think I would come on a colder
night as it would be a real comfort meal experience. The people who work here are most welcoming
and do speak English. Prices are reasonable so do use your GPS on your phone to
experience this typical French country meal.
LES
GALOPINS ( BASTILLE)
24 Rue des Taillandiers
Tel: 01 47 00 45 35
A Boston based crew brought me to Les
Galopins in the Bastille area for a grand meal.
This is a must share place because the meat portions are the size of
Texas. The sides are just as large. We ordered lamb which came as a very large
slab on which three of us dined most satisfactorily. The steaks looked even larger even though we
did not have one at our table. The place
is jammed so make a reservation. It is
well lit so don’t go for a
romantic evening as it is more of a fun group evening. Our waitress was born
and raised in the USA. As a result we
had an easy ordering experience. This is
a fun place to go for a casual evening out when you require a big tummy filler!
Be
sure to go to rue d’Odessa and have
crepes in one of the many crepe restaurants based on the Brittany
tradition. It is located near
Montparnasse Bienvenue metro station.
For 4 Euros you can have a fabulous main course crepe. Another 4 Euros will get you an unusual but
savory cider and another 4 Euros will let you slide into the wonderful world of
dessert crepes.
Review to come:
19.75 at 4 rue Saussier Leroy
La Chaumiere
54 avenue /Felix
Faure
( I have to dine several times at a
venue to put a place on my list. I will
return to these.)
Le Petit Retro
5, rue Mesnil….reservations a must.
Tel:
01 44 05 06
05. Absolutely one of the most precious
interiors. However it may not make the
list as it is above 30 euros for dinner. I am going to try it again.
Some other “different” things to see and do.
Do see the Musee des Arts Decoratives
which is on the side of the Louvre.
Spring for the dinner show at Le Moulin Rouge; expensive but a once in a
lifetime treat. Check out the Jardin des Plantes. Go see the Bibliotech
Nationale (their National library on the left bank) Have a coffee at the cafe
in the Jardin de Luxembourg and see if there is a performance on one of the
parks little music stands.
